For many years Scottish medieval costume was surprisingly under-researched. A recent cluster of publications and research projects indicates that this situation may be changing (Hayward 2019; Schussler Bond 2019; French and Westerhof Nyman 2021). Yet there remain many basic unanswered questions about clothing and dress in medieval Scotland. The archaeological evidence from Perth and Kinross is potentially highly significant in advancing our understanding of what Scots wore in the Middle Ages.
The Perth High Street excavations produced ‘the first large body of medieval textiles from Scotland’ (Dransart et al 2012). Because of the exceptional nature of this discovery, extensive analysis was undertaken. The level of study, and the number of items excavated in Perth, mean that we now have a valuable reference point for other medieval textile finds in the region.
Most of the Perth High Street textiles date from before the 14th century, while the remainder were from around the period of the Wars of Independence (Dransart et al 2012). A significant number of silk items were uncovered; no fewer than 11 examples of loom-woven silk were identified from Perth High Street. These were almost certainly imported items; Spain, Italy, France and Byzantium are all possible countries of origin. Silk hairnets, silk tablet-woven ribbons and decorative silk stitching on shoes were also discovered. Clearly there was a market for luxury goods in Perth. Of course, the silks excavated on Perth High Street date from before the main Scottish sumptuary laws of the 15th and 16th centuries limited the wearing of silk to the aristocracy (Hayward 2019). Whether the impact of sumptuary legislation can be traced in the archaeological record is a question for future research.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, the majority of the medieval textiles discovered at Perth were made from wool. The woollen textiles were of varying quality, and probably include items produced in Scotland and overseas. However, there was a notable lack of linen textiles uncovered in Perth. This appears to reflect problems with survival. The presence of flax seeds in the botanical remains from Perth High Street, and the discovery of tools associated with the preparation of linen, strongly suggest that linen was used in the burgh (Dransart et al 2012, 61–2). Evidence from Greenland shows that linen often perishes with little trace in conditions where wool is still relatively well-preserved.
Large numbers of medieval leather shoes have been recovered in Perth, notably during the Perth High Street excavations and at St John’s Square (Thomas and Bogdan 2012; Thomas 2016). Most are of turnshoe construction. The quantity of shoe leather which has been excavated suggests that wearing shoes was the norm for the residents of medieval Perth. Whether this was the case in upland and rural areas is still unclear, though medieval and post-medieval written accounts suggest that bare feet may have been more common in the Highlands. The shoes from the burgh of Perth show similarities with finds from other countries around the North Sea. A combination of the discoveries at Perth with evidence from other Scottish urban and elite sites has enabled the development of outline typologies for Scottish medieval shoes (Thomas and Bogdan 2012, 158–257).
A significant body of medieval metal items associated with clothing and personal adornment have been found across Perth and Kinross (M Hall 2021). Many were found during large-scale excavations. However, others were discovered as a result of metal-detecting. Given the popularity of recreational metal-detecting, it seems likely that this will continue to be a useful source of small metal finds. While metal-detecting often produces finds with less contextual information, it does enable us to recover interesting objects from a much wider range of locations than would otherwise be possible. The relatively strict laws on portable antiquities in Scotland mean that a wide range of stray finds are properly recorded. However, there perhaps ought to be discussions about the best way for researchers to access these records, so this data can be compared and analysed.
The Perth High Street excavations produced 27 medieval brooches, almost all of which were annular in design (Goodall 2012, 90–4). Metal buckles and pins were also discovered, as well as a number of small metal tubes which have been tentatively identified as ends for laces. Several long-decorated pins were found in Perth in contexts ranging from the 12th to the 14th centuries. These were probably used to fasten clothing and are relatively archaic in their design. They raise questions about what more old-fashioned elements persisted in Scottish medieval dress, and the extent to which their use related to conscious expressions of identity.
Many of the more exceptional finds associated with clothing and personal accessories, such as zoomorphic brooches or heraldic pendants, have received relatively detailed study. As well as being discussed in excavation reports, some of these objects have been considered in more theoretical overviews, such as recent discussion of the role of status, magic and religious devotion in choices about dress accessories (M Hall 2011 and 2021; Hall and Spencer 2012). Accurate and easily accessible museum catalogues, preferably with images, form an important resource to enable such comparative research to take place.
Despite recent advances, more research is still needed into dress in medieval Perth and Kinross. At present much of our evidence is from lowland urban sites. Further evidence of dress in rural and upland areas would be of great interest. Written records suggest that there may have been notable distinctions between costume in upland and lowland areas. However, the patchy nature of the physical evidence makes it hard to assess to what extent these comments reflect lowland Scottish prejudices rather than actual differences in practice.